Webcam telescope adapter-Webcam Mod for Astrophotography: 5 Steps (with Pictures)

Astrophotography requires a specific equipement : a telescope, a mount and of course an astrophotography camera. This is certainly the best astrophotography webcam. Also thanks to its USB 2 interface, you can obtain up 30 images per second! You have to turn it off via its software to avoid any light pollution during your astrophotography session. Microsoft LifeCam webcam are very good cameras for astronomy and astrophotography.

Webcam telescope adapter

Webcam telescope adapter

Webcam telescope adapter

Webcam telescope adapter

Webcam telescope adapter

A HD p means x which is about 2. As long adspter the weather is clear it's a paid gig Webcam telescope adapter me. You are commenting using your Twitter account. No luck for me so far. Ships to:. Webcam cover without the bezel, debris are shown nearby.

Ass likc. Example of images taken with webcam and a telescope

Webca, Our Catalogs Online or in your mailbox. Astrophotography Kits. Once the target has been centered and focus is achieved, I then Webcam telescope adapter to live view to further adjust the focus. Make sure that your camera is securely fastened into the focus tube. This method involves placing an eyepiece between the camera body and the telescope using an adapter tube eyepiece projection adapter. Click Here adaptet Email Us. Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:. Search for: Close. The True-2 adapter goes directly from Bayonet mount Webcam telescope adapter 2" Barrel. Post to Cancel. Coating the interior with black will definitely help, but Webccam critical for short exposures required in webcam imaging I have not anodized my adapters yet :. Sign up for email and receive updates about sales, new products, and astronomy. Thanks, Shawn.

Model: WEBT.

  • Astrophotography requires a specific equipement : a telescope, a mount and of course an astrophotography camera.
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I recently bought a Celestron Astromaster EQ , after taking it out a couple of times I soon realized I wanted to take photographs and share with friends.

I decided to go with the Logitech C , it was readily available, good build and good image quality. To start with I first setup the telescope indoors, connected the webcam to the PC and used SharpCap to do some trial image captures. I had initially tried holding my mobile to the eyepiece and also my point and shoot digital camera Canon S5 is both with and without the eyepiece and also considered this option.

I thought it would be somewhat complicated to build a stable bracket for these and decided to go with a web cam mod. While deciding the sort of enclosure to build I tried different combinations of options such as with and without the eyepiece, with and without the webcam lens etc at different distances to estimate where I get the best focus.

Basically checking out if I should go with "prime focus" or "eyepiece projection". The best options seemed to be to remove the eyepiece and the webcam lens and hold the CMOS image sensor about an inch from the eyepiece holder prime focus. Did you use this instructable in your classroom? Add a Teacher Note to share how you incorporated it into your lesson.

Remove the rubber caps at the hinge to expose the screw holding the hinge 2. Remove the screw with a small philips screwdriver 3. Carefully push out the hinge pin. The hinge pin can be quite tight, push it out a bit from the screw end then pull it with a plier from the other end.

On the bottom side of the face plate is a narrow slot, insert a thin metal scale or anything else and yank the faceplate off. Underneath you will find three screws to actually open the webcam case. Open the 3 screws and gently open the case. Before going any further discharge yourself of any static by holding some grounded metallic object such as a PC case. Flip it and remove the two screws holding the lens assembly over the image sensor.

The lens assembly is stuck with an adhesive pad all around the image sensor but is not very strong, a slight rocking motion of the assembly should dislodge it.

Next we need to disable the tiny power LED labeled D1, this is so that the light from the LED does not flood the image sensor when capturing images. Break off the LED 2. De-solder the LED 3. De-solder R22 4. De-solder Q1 5. Anything that stops the light. Now put the webcam back together again, but without the lens assembly and face plate, as shown in the last image.

I found that even though the pipe was supposed to be 1. For this I heated the pipe a bit over a gas flame held some distance from the flame so as not to burn it , when it begins to soften push the pipe through the eyepiece holder a couple of times till the pipe cools and sets.

Remove the eyepiece holder ring from the telescope when doing this. Do not let the pipe cool while in the eye piece holder as it might get stuck and will be difficult to remove. Of course all this is not necessary if the pipe fits into the eyepiece holder comfortably in the first place. Now slide the webcam into the head of the PVC "T" joint as shown in the second and third image. Make sure you don't get any PVC dust into the image sensor. Next push in the PVC pipe cut to the proper length into the T joint as shown in the last image.

And that's all there is to it actually With the telescope eyepiece, focus on some distant land object, then remove the eyepiece and insert the modified webcam into the eyepiece. With the webcam turned ON confirm that the webcam is able to focus properly. You might need to slide and adjust the webcam further to center the image in the field of view.

In my case I found that the image sensor needed to be closer to the telescope however the long limb of the T would not let the webcam get closer to where it needed to be. This was quickly fixed by removing the pipe and shortening the limb of the T and putting the pipe back in. This time I pushed the pipe way in till it touches the webcam so there is no gap from the sides to let light or dust in. The piece of pvc ring that was left over from cutting the limb I turned into a cap to close the pipe when the webcam is not in use to prevent dust from entering.

I plan to seal off the sides as well which I have not done yet as I haven't yet decided if I need to cool the sensor. For this I am considering a tiny peltier on the PCB at the back side of the sensor. This will also require getting rid of the original webcam case and a means to supply power to the peltier and fan. The current draw might bee too much for the USB port but then again I wouldn't want to drive the peltier to sub zero temperatures.

As always the last thing to do is to wait for a clear sky and give this a test Was finally able to take some sample shots of the upcoming super moon. The first is two images joined using Autostitch while the second is a composite made using Gimp. Astrophotography is an interesting field on its own, lots to learn.

Have Fun! Logitech webcam software for the camera has an option to turn-off the led, so it is unnecessary any mod at this respect. I have tried to capture Orion Nebula without success with the C, but even so I think that it is great, thanks. Reply 4 years ago on Introduction. Posted some sample pictures, if you hurry you might be able to grab pictures of the super moon this weekend.

As long as the weather is clear it's a paid gig for me. So I'm not too familiar with telescopes as I only have a very old one from when I was a kid. But it appears that this does not require an objective lens anywhere? Or does the camera lens serve that function, seems like it might also be removed? The old telescope I have is actually missing its objective lenses and this might be a nice alternative use for it.

Thanks for the Instructable. Reply 4 years ago. This type of setup is called "prime focus", it means no objective lens of telescope and also we want the image to focus directly on the image sensor, so the builtin lens of the webcam is also removed.

Paint the inside of the tube flat black. This will prevent any reflected light from causing interference. Thanks for the feedback, totally forgot about that. Will need to see how to get paint to stick to PVC or might just line it with black craft paper or something.. I have 2 wrecked webtv cams in my junk. Tried to do something similar. Have you considered making a slide duplicator? What sorts of lenses could be used? Thanks, I think I have an idea for a slide duplicator that could go with this mod but can't comment on the lens until I actually try it out.

I think that's another ible on the way Try using the lens from your wrecked webcams with the camera on your mobile to work like a microscope. Now on to the mod itself Add Teacher Note. Start by getting rid of the stand at the back of the webcam. Carefully push out the hinge pin The hinge pin can be quite tight, push it out a bit from the screw end then pull it with a plier from the other end. Next remove the two screws on the circuit board and carefully remove it from the case. There are several options to do this; 1.

For the enclosure I used a pvc plumbing "T" joint and 1. Participated in the Remix 2. Did you make this project? Share it with us! I Made It! Internet of Things Class. AlexJ 10 months ago. PrncssGeek 4 years ago on Introduction. Love this idea! Great job! Looking forward to some pictures before I try out this mod. GarthBock 4 years ago on Step 5. KenK4 4 years ago on Introduction.

Great job and well described. I think that's another ible on the way :- Try using the lens from your wrecked webcams with the camera on your mobile to work like a microscope.

Deluxe Astrophotography Kit 1. You do not need to use a filter to capture astrophotography images using a camera and telescope, but they certainly help when taking pictures in areas of heavy light pollution. Model: IPA8P. Hi Dale, Perhaps you could try using Barlows, or replace the focuser with a better one : Other than the two, I could not think of any way around this problem without resorting to moving the the mirror : Eteny. First, remove the camera lens that is currently mounted to the body of your DSLR. Thank you! A machine shop should help you locate a supplier in your area.

Webcam telescope adapter

Webcam telescope adapter

Webcam telescope adapter

Webcam telescope adapter

Webcam telescope adapter. Astrophotography and Amateur Radio

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New Webcam Adapter for Telescope "Thread Good for Taking Moon Video Capture | eBay

See below an Updated version! Here I will describe how I adapted a High Definition p web cam to a reflector telescope.

The telescope is described in another section. There are various things to consider before you buy a webcam to capture video or take pictures with your telescope. You will excuse technicalities but everything will be simpler later on:.

So I would recommend video first. So I would recommend HD with at least p resolution. That is not bad. A HD p means x which is about 2.

There may be still some but the resolution is not so good. In the past they were not as sensitive as CCDs. However that has been changing. And their resolution is by far better. High resolution and fast capturing CCD video cameras are expensive and hard to adapt, like the ones used for surveillance. You may find high resolution and fast CCD cameras dedicated to astrophotography from telescope manufacturers or specialty manufacturers.

So it is your choice and also your budget. Some webcams are usually fixed focus devices, which is in part due to the fixed iris they have with their lenses. But the lens will have to be removed in many cases so the focus will depend on your telescope setting.

So try to avoid Auto-focus cameras, they may come with a electronically controlled lens that may not be easy to remove. Some Auto-focus cameras may use external devices which will be part of the board or will be part of the sensing device and you many not even be able to disconnect or disable it easily.

So, the simpler, the better. And for image control there are a few HD webcams which has image control via software. These will be good because it may allow you to adjust brightness sensitivity and other aspects to take better pictures. The picture is from Microsoft, since I forgot to take a picture before taking it apart.

You many need to look at your storage and find a plastic case and cap for an old 35mm film roll. There may still some stores that sell 35mm film roll and there may be some people selling them in bulk in Ebay. Actually I broke two little stands inside which may become hand to reassemble the case.

I preferred to keep the case. So here is a better option. Take the case and look where the tilting grabbing base enters the camera body. Camera side showing where the screws holding the body are located. The base turns around and inserts a tongue with a pivot inside the camera. If you tilt the base you will see two tiny screws on each side. Screws on the grab base of the camera, the other side.

Unscrew these two screws. Then with a flat screwdriver, or a plastic flat knife, pry open the case. There is a notch in the lower part of the camera if you face it from the front, between the side of the camera and where the flip grab base gets into the camera body.

Camera front view showing where the notch to pry open the camera is located. My photo shows damage because I tried opening the body without knowing at first about the screws on the base.

Pry open the camera body, use the notch at the bottom of the camera. Once opened you will see the camera board with the lens, and the microphone attached to the cover you just took apart. Take the mike out from its hole on the cap, do not cut the wires of the mike. Camera body opened, mike taken out of the cover hole insert. Arrows show the mike cylinder with cables and the camera lens body. There is a small metal clip keeping the grab base handle attached to the body.

Slip that clip out at the base of the camera, and take away the plastic pivot keeping the base attached. The base will just slide off the camera body. Now, looking at the board of the camera, locate the two screws that hold the camera board to the body. Unscrew them gently. Unscrew the camera board mounting screws the photo was a little unfocussed, but screws are there.

Take the board apart from the body. You will see the cable harness on the bottom of the camera body. It has a plastic twist-lock. You may turn it to loose the cable from the body. Do not destroy the body of the camera, you may have to put all back again.

In this adaptation I use the body back again to put the camera in, others destroy the body altogether. I loose the harness but do not take out the cable too much, to allow for some flexibility in handling the board. The camera board is covered with a plastic sheet.

Take it out carefully avoiding damage to the cables or their connections to the board. Taking the adhesive cover off the camera board.

Lens mounting screws on the back of the camera board. Unscrew them but be careful not to drop the lens fixture. Once unscrewed, turn the camera board and you will be to see the sensor below the loose lens. I took the lens off to inspect the CMOS sensor. Be very careful, do not touch with your fingers the sensor; your finger will deposit salt and other mineral that may render the sensor unusable. The CMOS sensor connectors are protected with an adhesive plastic insulator.

Leave it attached. Put the lens cover again to protect the sensor from dust and debris as well to avoid touching it. Tight again the cable harness on the back inside of the body. Then put the camera board back inside the body. Screw back again the camera body to the body. In the final assembly you will take the lens fixture off the camera, but for now leave it on. Camera back into the body with lens fixture arrow on to protect the sensor. It is time to work on the cover of the camera.

The cover comes with a rectangular relief inner hood. In the center there is a circular hole. This hole needs to be made rectangular. One may use an Exact-o knife or box cutter to take out the plastic. Cutting off a rectangular hole in the inner camera hood. One also may use a soldering iron to melt the plastic, but eventually you need the knife or cutter to smooth out the edge. Finished rectangular hole in the inner camera hood; a soldering iron and knife cutter were used to smooth the edges.

Now the 35mm film box needs to be cut too. The camera cover will be fitted with the cutted film box cap. The film can will fit inside the eyepiece adapter of the telescope.

Camera cover with rectangular hole and film plastic can with cut out bottom. The camera cover, as seen on the webcam picture from Microsoft, has a plastic chrome bezel. That needs to be removed to be able to adapt the film plastic can cap to the camera cover. There are eight melted points that below to the struts holding the chrome bezel.

Camera cover bezel trim struts holders — melt or cut out them to remove the bezel trim. One can melt them with the soldering iron or use the Exact-0 knife or box cutter to take them out. Once out the bezel should come off, if not, use a 0 screwdriver to push the struts out. Webcam cover without the bezel, debris are shown nearby. Now you proceed to open the hole on the film can cap using a soldering iron and a knife to smooth the edge.

Take out the necessary area to cover the camera cover and grab the film plastic can. Once done, you present the cap onto the camera cover, and mark the circle form with the hole on top of the cover. Cut away the plastic part of the camera cover that is covered by the film can plastic cap. Make nice round cuts. I use a soldering iron to melt away the plastic and then a knife to smooth the edges. Camera cover with square edges of hood cut out with a soldering iron and knife to fit the cut out film can cover shown above.

Webcam telescope adapter

Webcam telescope adapter